Buongiorno! Last night I dropped into bed in what one might call a food coma. It hadn’t gone much past nine when I fell asleep. Until half past midnight all was well. At that point my stomach was feeling a little overwhelmed. Sleep reoccurred and then about half past three, sleep failed me again. All was fine until half past six when I finally gave in and just got up.
Shower, shave and get dressed. The hotel breakfast wasn’t interesting enough to make me want to partake. So, I followed last night’s route back towards the capitol building. Down West Johnson Street to State Street. Michelangelo’s Coffee House caught my eye when we walked past last night so it seemed like a good place to stop and get a cappuccino and brioche. Served Italian style in an actual porcelain cup and on a porcelain plate. Neither were exceptional but they weren’t Starbucks, which may not be saying much.
Watching the people come and go it is easy to realize that it is very much a college town. The ratio of old folks to young clearly sides with the young. There weren’t many homeless people or beggars. One might suspect the weather had something to do with that. It was forty-seven when I went out. There were a couple sleeping bags in the doorways, but nothing like San Francisco.
After finishing the cappuccino, a walk around the capitol building, which sits atop the hill at the end of State Street, was called for. There is supposed to be a cigar lounge on West Main near the capitol building. There were a number of empty buildings, coffee houses, bars and a few restaurants. The Walgreens was here as well. The Wisconsin’s Veterans Museum, The Wisconsin Historical Museum, Madison Museum of Contemporary Art, and the Children’s Museum.
While, like most cities, there are empty buildings or store fronts, they appear to be clean. Several of the stores appear to be newly redecorated. There is quite a bit of construction activity going on. It is however still early in the day, before 9, as my excursion around the capitol progresses. There is a cigar lounge at 117 E. Main, Maduro. The hours are strange to me, 4 PM to 2 AM. Saturday they do you a favor and open at 2 PM. It appears to be a cigar bar, meaning they serve liquor. However, the “menu” posted outside listed several different cigars. Looking through the window I couldn’t see a humidor. The prices on the cigars weren’t outrageous.
I walked back to the hotel, only to find out I have the wrong room keys, I guess in the dark when I left I grabbed what I thought were the keys to 736. What I picked up were the keys to 738. This called for a visit with Harry V and Morgan for a minute. There was a urgent need for a bathroom. Then, Harry V not having a key to 736, I had to wake up Nonna to let me in.
Harry V and I talked about going downstairs for breakfast, but the hotel’s breakfast room closes at 10, and that is just moments away. So, I go down the to coffee shop in the hotel, The Bassett Street Brunch Club, to get us a table, however they have an hour long wait. Hoping that they might be exaggerating the wait time, I ask to be put on the list. I let let everyone know. A few minutes later a text message appeared on my phone letting me know that we are on the wait list, and that they will let me text me again when a table becomes available. At 10:50, substantially less than an hour later, another text appears that our table is ready. Unfortunately, Harry V and Morgan need to leave so Morgan can make her noon class.
Nonna is in the shower, but I go down and take the table anyway. No, hungry really hasn’t entered into the picture. Dinner is at 5:15 tonight, so eating a late lunch makes no sense. Maybe coffee and some toast for now. A few minutes later Nonna arrives and orders the blueberry pancakes, I order a short stack and a side of bacon, we have tea and coffee. The food is very good, but after one or two bites we are done. We get a to go box for Nonna’s breakfast. There is no reason to take mine, I’ll never eat it.
Rochelle has texted, they will be here at 1:39. We return to the room to get it ready for housekeeping. I want housekeeping to get here, so I can get into the bed and mess it up. Perhaps more importantly I want or at least need a nap.
I took the People Magazine and went down to the lobby. If I couldn’t sleep in the room, there were at least some comfortable looking chairs in the lobby. There is a nice lobby which doubles as the breakfast lounge in the morning. There is a nice fireplace, fake, of course, but it makes the room cozy. Looking at the People Magazine and watching the fire puts me into the mood to nap. For hour or so I doze on and off waiting for the Kansas City Falks to arrive.
Rochelle came into the lobby and nudges me back to reality. Oliver and Grace enter the lobby with a luggage cart full of suitcases and bags of clothing. Rochelle stays downstairs to sort out the parking, prior to their arrival we didn’t have a car. Grace, Oliver and I take the elevator to their room (738), they are in the room next door to us. After things get situated, we all walked down towards the University. Harry V acting as our guide points out the dorms where he and Morgan live, not the same dorm. Other important buildings are pointed out as well. We stopped in the Memorial Union so Oliver could have something to eat. Morgan joined us there after her class.
Off to the University Book Store and shopping. Grace and Oliver had some definite ideas as to what they wanted. I wanted a red Wisconsin hoodie. I managed to get a bright red one with a Badger on it. Now Nonna can find me when she gets lost. We exited the bookstore and walked down State Street looking at all the various shops. Rochelle & Nonna stopped for a coffee at Colectivo Coffee on State Street. Way to modern looking for my taste. It must be good because I think they were in there a half hour before I gave up and headed back to the hotel.
While I was headed back to the hotel the others walked a little more then dropped Nonna off at the hotel. I was very happily getting my nap in. About 4:30 I got up as it was time to get ready and head for the Tornado Club Steak House for dinner. Apparently, Harry V and his parents have been here before. It is a short fifteen-minute walk from the hotel. Harry V, Rochelle, Morgan, Nonna and I walked together while the others went on head to make sure someone was there at the 5:15 reservation time. There was some disagreement about how long it was going to take to walk it.
It is a curious thing. Several of the restaurants and bars have “club” in the name. During the mid-1900’s supper clubs came into vogue. They ran the gambit from dimly lit dinner only clubs, to more open family friendly clubs, at least family friendly once a month. I recall the Garden Club in Ukiah that my parents belonged to. They would go once a week or more, play bridge, have cocktails and dinner. I remember it as white and green, light and airy.
According to the Wisconsin Travel website, “every state has its diners, bistros, cafes and chophouses, but Wisconsin lays claim to the supper club, and a renaissance is well under way. We are realizing that what we took for granted for generations is regionally unique and a precious part of our state’s culinary character.
Dimly lit, dinner-only, linger-why-don’t-you restaurants were sought after from coast to coast by the mid-1900s, but popularity faded as new dining trends and competition emerged. Some of that happened in the Badger State, too, but a strong yearning for community and connection, especially in rural areas, helps the tradition thrive.”
It appears that Wisconsin may still be stuck in the 1950’s. Not that there is anything wrong with that, says the 1950’s child in me. Actually, the idea of a dinner club is a nice one. Somewhere where you aren’t just occupying a table and being rushed through dinner. The idea may need to be resurrected.
The Tornado Club Steak House is just on the other side of the capitol building from Rare Steakhouse, we went to last night. It is just a half block off of the square around the capitol building. Yes, on the far side from Rare but still an easy walk.
Harry IV, Grace and Oliver were already seated when we arrived. We actually walked in through the bar, apparently the front door is on the other side of the building. It is clearly an older “1950’s” bar and steakhouse vibe.
The menu is smaller than Rare, but still fairly large. Tonight, being Friday, it is New England Clam Chowder being served with the French Onion Soup. There are seven steaks listed on the menu, each is served with soup or salad, and one side. Rochelle and Nonna got the spinach with hilt bacon vinaigrette dressing. V got the clam chowder, he also had and Oder of escargot. I got one of them, they were as specular as the escargot Harry V and I had on the little sidewalk café in Paris.Those were amazing! I ordered the French onion soup but gave it to Morgan. She wasn’t hungry, really of the four of us who ate at Rare last night how could any of us be hungry. However, that is not a requirement for now enjoying a good meal for the Falks. It also explains how Morgan keep her figure so well.
Nonna and Rochelle each ordered the larger filet. I order the smaller one. V managed to order the 28 oz. Bone in Rib-eye. Grace and Oliver shared pound and a half of Alaskan King Crab Legs. IV ordered the larger filet as well, so he could have some to share with Grace and Oliver. There were baked potatoes all around. There was a little steak left over for Harry V to take back the the refrigerator in the dorm, but enough for a midnight snack.
There were also the obligatory desserts. Cheesecake, chocolate cake and the like. Shared among the table. After dinner we walked back up the hill from the restaurant where we had a wonderful view of the capitol building. During the day it isn’t a very impressive structure. Basically, grey and dull. In fact, I remarked that it could really use a gold dome like the one on the state house in Boston.
However tonight all light up it presents itself completely differently. The white Bethel Vermont granite sparkled under the white lights. It was really very breathtaking. It does seem a little like walking back in time to the late 1950’s. The architecture of the buildings around the square is a good mix of pre World War II and modern edifices. One of these that stands out is the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art.
The MMCO is just down hill from the capitol building on State Street. In truth is appears to actually be several buildings strung together. Not exactly in the center but sort of, is an art deco (?) building. Either side of this building is modern (it may be 227 State Street). The architecture contrasts well with the building on either side. At night this building is lite up and is beautiful. The tower recesse are painted blue and white and at night with the lights are quite stunning.
We continued our stroll down State Street to Jefferson and on to our hotel. The old folks were dropped off, the rest of the family walked V and Morgan back to their dorms. Oliver was going to staying in the dorm tonight with Harry V.
Nonna and I relaxed and got ready for bed. It has been a good day.
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