January 22, 2026

Amman, Jordan

This morning, we were supposed to do an eight-hour tour of Northern Jordan. We were to see the Umm Oais, Ajlum Castle and Jerash. Even though we have lovely beds in nice comfortable rooms last night we were all tired and just a little ready to have a day off. We told Sami that eight hours was too much for us. He argued that we really needed to see Northern Jordan. The compromise is going to visit Jerash.

Jerash or Gerasa, is located 48 km (30 miles) north of Amman. Human remains have been found in modern Jerash which date back to the Neolithic site of Tal Abu Sowan nearly 9,000 years ago. There is nothing to see of Tal Abu Sowan, but Jerash was one of the Decapolis. The Decapolis is a group of ten Greek Hellenistic cities which were named in “Naturalis Historia” by Pliny the Elder which was first published in 77-79 AD.

These are the most important cities in the Greek, Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods. These cities are for the most part located in Syria and Jordan. Amman and Damascus are both part of the Decapolis. However, today we are focusing on Jerash.

The Bible mentions that Jesus traveled through the region of the Decapolis, and Jerash is one of those cities. So far there is no explicit evidence He entered the city itself. Some scholars believe Jerash is the site of the “Gerasene demoniac” miracle. Many scholars doubt this because the swine which were inhabited by the demoniac spirits “ran into the sea and drowned”. Jerash is approximately 100 km (60 miles) from the Dead Sea, the nearest “sea”. Or, at least it is today, and today the Dead Sea is the closest “sea”. 2,000 years ago? Who knows.

However, Jerash was an important city in the early Christian era. Several churches were built in the area, many of them using the stones and building supplies from the former temples on the site. There were several earthquakes beginning in the mid-eighth century (749 Galilee earthquake) which destroyed large parts of Jerash.

But much like Pompeii the destruction and abandonment of the city has made Jerash one of the best-preserved Roman provincial towns. Jerash follows the highly standardized, orthogonal grid plan of Roman cities of the time. A plan inspired by Greek models. There is a central forum at the intersection of the two main streets: the north-south Cardo Maximus and the east-west Decumanus.

Cardo Maximus and Sami

Torino, also a former ancient Roman city, known as Julia Augusta Taurinorum, once had a Cardo Maximus and a Decumanus. Today Via San Tommaso and Via Porta Palatine is the north-south route of the Cardo Maximus. The Palatine Gate, once known as the Porta Princpalis Dextra, on the north end is one of the best preserved 1st century AD Roman gates. The southern gate of the Cardo Maximus was known as Porta Marmorea, is now the intersection of Via San Tommaso and Via Santa Teresa.

The eastern end of the Decaumanus (now Via Garibaldi) featured a gate that is now part of the Palazzo Madama in Piazza Castello. The foundations of the Roman gate can be seen on the eastern side of the palazzo. At the time of the Romans the area south of where the palazzo is was probably the marshy bank of the River Po.

At the western end of the Decumanus was Porta Sequsina. This is now where the Via Garibaldi crosses Via Della Consolata. The Cardo Maximus and Decumanus would normally cross in the center of the city and would be a forum or major marketplaces. Today in Torino that site is very near or at the Piazza San Carlo. Even today this area is part of the original Quadrilatero Romano district which still mirrors the ancient, gridded street layout.

So why go on about Torino. Well, because every tour of Torino we have taken talks about the Cardo Maximus and Decumanus. Because those street still exist, maybe not in their original form, but they are still there. And, that is the point. Although you can’t see the Roman street grid design from 2,000 years ago, it is till there.

Here in Jerash you can easily see the colonnaded Caro Maximus and Decumanus. The original paving of the streets in right before your eyes. You can see the wheel ruts and the drainage system to keep the water from building up in the street. Along the Cardo Maximus you can see the Nymphaeum, a massive fountain dedicated to the nymphs, who in Greek and Roman mythology were divine spirits associated with water and nature. The nymphaea was an important architectural feature in Roman cities. They fulfilled both the functional objective of providing a central place for getting water and the beautiful function. The job of the nymphaeum was to collect water from natural springs or via the aqueduct system and channel the water to the city center. The fountain would have put on a spectacular show as the water passed down the front of the fountain into the basin at the temples foot. While not all of it remains today, it is still quite spectacular.

 This is the nymphaea in Jerash

These are the stairs, looking down from the top, we had to climb.

We climbed the hill behind the nymphaeum to reach the Temple of Artemis. Clearly ment to impress with its impressive Corinthian columns and stairs. Artemis was the patron goddess of the city and was the Hellenistic interpretation of a local deity who was probably worshipped before the arrival of the Greeks. The temple was destroyed and repurposed many times. There is evidence of an even older sanctuary provided by a few inscriptions.

From here we walked down to the theater and listened to the acoustics which are truly amazing. This is a Roman type of theater which has a well-preserved stage. There was a man playing bagpipes to help demonstrate the acoustics. Playing bagpipes? “It takes and Irishman to play the pipes.” (Sean Connery in the Longest Day).

We next visited the Oval Plaza which is a massive plaza surrounded by 1st-century Ionic columns. It is hard to believe they were able to build such a thing 2,000 years ago. We build something today and it lasts until tomorrow. They built something which has withstood earthquakes and the ravages of time.

The Oval Plaza

We also visited Hadrian’s Arch built in 129-130 AD. It is a massive triumphal arch built to honor Emperor Hadrian’s visit 1,800 years ago. Hadrian got around a lot didn’t he?

By now it was time for lunch. Lunch as at the Lebanese House on Debbin Street. Sami promised this would be our best lunch yet. Well, his was correct. It started with ten different appetizers. The main course was a plate of grilled meats (beef, chicken and kebab of lamb, beef and herbs). It was a great lunch. Harry V took pictures but hasn’t shared them yet.

After lunch we headed back to the hotel, betting there just before it has gone 15:00. Resting, a little napping and some packing, and the decided to go down to Salt for dinner. Last night was so good we thought we would do it again.

The three of the shared the Katsu Sando de Boeuf MB5. It was really as good as it was yesterday. We hated a bottle of Bocelli Sangiovese a Toscana IGT made from the noble varietal it is a bright, lush and appealing Sangiovese. Mary ordered the wedge salad as her main course, and V and I ordered the Australian Wagyu strip-loin as our main course. I got the sweet potato side and V got Mac&Cheese, just to see what it would be like. Mary & I shared my steak. It was all as good as it was last night.

After that it was up to bed. We have an 08:00 pickup to get V to his flight to Roma at 10:30.

Buonanotte e ciao

Enrico e Maria