Lho Liang, Komodo Island, Indonesia
Buongiorno! There is one thing and one thing only to do today. Visit Taman Nasional Komodo, Lho Liang National Park or, if you prefer, Komodo National Park. We are here to see the famous Komodo Dragons. Not actually a dragon, but the Komodo Dragon is the world’s largest lizard.
The Komodo National Park is located within the Lesser Sunda Islands in the border region between the provinces of East Nusa Tenggara and West Nusa Tenggara. The park consists of three islands, Komodo, Padar and Rinca. There are also 26 smaller islands included in the park which covers a total area of 1,733 km squared. The park is dedicated to protecting other animals besides the Komodo dragon, it also includes a number of marine species. In 1991 the park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Komodo Islands are part of the Coral Triangle.
The Coral Triangle is located between the Pacific and Indian oceans. This area contains at least 500 species of reef-building corals. It is one of the eight major coral reef zones in the world and is recognized as a global center for marine biodiversity.
Since being discovered by Europeans in 1912 the importance of the region and the uniqueness of the Komodo Dragon was felt. Lieutenant J.K.H. Van Steyn van Henbroek, the Civil Administrator in Reo, Flores Island, initially established the park with the conservation goals of protecting the entire biodiversity of the region, both marine and terrestrial. Although I would guess he had other reasons, more commercial.
Little is known of the early history of the Komodo islanders. They were subjects of the Sultanate of Bima. The islands remoteness from Bima probably meant its affairs were of little interested to the Sultanate, other than perhaps the occasional demands for tribute.
Descendants of the original people of Komodo, the Ata Modo, still live in Komodo, but there are no pure blood people left and their culture and language is slowly being integrated with the recent migrants.
Today we are here to see what Lieutenant Steyn was trying to protect. We were warned that the dragon lives in the wild and there would be no guarantee we would see one. This isn’t a deep water port do it is a tender ride in. Earlier this morning, around 5, the ocean seemed too angry to allow us to use the tenders. However, as we came around the point and entered the bay the sea just went calm. It was going to be very disappointing not to have the opportunity to see the dragons.
We are in the second group to go a shore. Tendering into an area isn’t all that bad, but the smell of the diesel in the tender can be nauseating. For some reason today it isn’t so bad. It is a short distance from the ship to the pier. The bay must be very shallow and the shore must extend quite a ways out at low tide because the pier is a good kilometer long. It is of concrete construction. It appears to be the type they would have made during the Second World War.The only problem with that theory is that is it in too good of a condition to be that old. It is probably sixty years old, not eighty.
Tendering to the pier takes us about fifteen minutes. Walking down the pier takes another ten minutes. There are a number of little rug rats playing in the water at the end of the pier as we step down on to the sand. They would be a good lunch for a Komodo dragon.
We walk a few yards across the beach to the entrance of the Loh Liang, Komodo National Park. Here we are met by a guide and to game wardens. The guide gave a spiel on the park and safety. There is one game warden in front of the group and one following up to make sure no one gets lost or left behind. After this introduction we start down the two kilometer trail through the park to look for dragons.
It is 29 - 30 degrees out this morning, 85 – 86 Fahrenheit. It is also 85 – 90 percent humidity. At this combined temperature and humidity is it a little difficult to catch a full breath. We start on the trek through the jungle foliage following a well worn trail. Still it isn’t without is obstacles. There are tree roots crossing the trail, the occasional exposed part of a bolder, and the ubiquitous mud puddle. There is also the occasional low hanging branch to avoid.
We walk along and the guide stops every so often to point out a plant or tree. A number of which were used for and are still used for medicinal purposes. There are bromeliads and orchids growing on the trees. However, it is quite beautiful, calm and serene. There is the occasional bird call off in the distance. We are able to spot more than one yellow crested cockatoo. They are a beautiful bird.
All of a sudden ahead of us there is a commotion. Apparently, the group ahead of us has spotted the dragon. Everyone is told to be quite and don’t make any sudden moves. Slowly we make our way down the path. The guide points and says there are two male dragons just ahead on the right.
Strain as much as we could we couldn’t see them. At first we thought he was seeing things. We moved further down the trail, until we could see a muddy water hole, a couple of logs decaying in the whole, and then all of a sudden one of the logs moved. These dragons have really good camouflage.
We stood around and watched the dragons, took our photos, knelt on the ground ion front of the dragons while the game warden took our photo. Yes, this is the same guy that is supposed to be protecting us from the dragons. However, the dragons apparently eat infrequently.
They are big, but somehow not as big as they looked on TV or in magazines. These two guys we are looking at are described by the guide as two males about three meters long. There was some question about that in our minds, but no one was going to get out a tape measure to challenge the call. One of them moved off and way from us but right towards the other group. They very quickly cleared a path for him.
The guide explained that this was a man-made watering hole. Basically, used to attract the wild animals to the water, and provide a spot for the dragons to catch prey. So you might call it a little contrived. But hey, we got to see live, free range Komodo dragons!
We continue walking down the path back towards the beach area. We stop along the way to learn more about the foliage and the indigenous peoples use of them. Different orchids are in bloom in the trees. We stop and look at and learn about a dragon nest. We also look up occasional after we learn the dragons live in the trees for the first twelve to eighteen months. We don’t see one, but the thought is there.
We approach the beach where we have to walk though the gauntlet of trinket sellers to make out way back to the pier. The young boys playing by the pier have now turned into professional beggars. Everyone is able to maneuver around them as we make our way down the pier and onto the waiting tender.
Back on the tender we chose to go up to the upper open deck. Although we are in the sun the air is much fresher up here. There is a better view of the beach and the island. It is quite picturesque. As we pull up the ship a young man on a raft comes along side the tender and through the open doorway is offering goods for sale. The same trinkets in the shops on shore, but you have to admire his tenacity.
Once back on the ship we can look out and see his compatriots in a nearby boat circling so he isn’t just out there alone on a raft. It doesn’t diminish our respect for his salesmanship, perhaps even enhances it.
We are back on board after it had gone two. Tired, sweaty and completely worn out. I went down to the cigar lounge while Mary took a shower. Rosanne and John were their having a cigarette. After I sat with them for a while I noticed John’s hand was all bloody. Apparently John passed out from the heat while on shore and broke his finger. I convinced him to go to the doctor.
They were “afraid” of what they would be charged if they went to the doctor. Now mind you Rosanne is a retired nurse. Although I didn’t know for sure, I told them there would be no charge under there circumstances. An hour later they finally went to the clinic on board.
The clinic gave John every test they could think of. Security came down and tested him for alcohol. Took photos of him making note of the mud on his shoes. It is probable they were convinced John might sue them. They doctor reset the bone, put a splint on the finger and bandaged it up. He also told them when we get to Benoa tomorrow John had to go to the hospital and have it looked at by an orthopedic surgeon.
Spoiler alert. The doctor in Benoa said the ships doctor did a great job. After all the tests and examination by the specialist at the hospital in Benoa John was handed a bill for 525,000 Rupiahi, about $35 US.
It was an exciting day. And we weren’t disappointed by the Komodo Dragons.
Buonanotte e Ciao, Enrico e Maria
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