March 15, 2025

Tarangire Ndovu Camp, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania

Olakira Migration Camp Ndutu, Serengeti National Park, Sinoni, Tanzania

This morning we were up, packed and at breakfast by 07:00. Alex was ready to take us to the airport at 07:30. Now the flight is at 09:55 but Alex said they wanted us there by 08:30. There is no security or immigration, in fact there is basically nothing at the airstrip except dirt.

So why so early? We’ll it is because the airline is very flexible in its flight schedule. 09:55 could mean 10:25 or it could also mean 09:25. Or, that that matter of fact it could mean sometime today, or maybe tomorrow is better. That is probably a little harsh, they do show up on the day they are supposed.

Today we are flying from Kuro Airstrip and flying to the Ndutu Airstrip.  Supposedly about a two hour flight. The plane arrives a little early and we take off about 09:40. Mary and I are the only two passengers on the plane. Fly fly for a little more than an hour and land, I believe, at the Lake Manyara airstrip. Very difficult to know, the flight wasn’t scheduled to stop anywhere, and there aren’t “names” on the buildings, if there were any, to help identify where you are.

Wherever we stopped we picked up three more passengers. We then spent another hour or less in the air before landing at the Ndutu Airstrip. The Ndutu airstrip is so named because of its proximity to Lake Ndutu. The Olakira Migration Camp is about 3 or 4 km east of the airport at the southern tip of Lake Ndutu.

Upon landing we are surprised to see so many vehicles and people milling about the airstrip. Apparently there was a plane that landed just before ours and one that took off just before. We are the only plane on the airstrip however when we land.

We deplane leaving the other three passengers on board and are greeted by Hasani for Asilia who will be our guide for the next few days. We take a long route to the camp and drive along Ndutu Lake. Along the way we get to see several different birds and animals. On the lake there are flamingos! The smaller pink less flamingos and the larger white great flamingos. Hundred of them on the lake.

Hansani went into some explanation how, somehow, flamingos were names such because of the Portuguese or Spanish is flamengo, which means “flame-colored” referring to the vibrant pink plumage. Ok, that sounds reasonable. Then he talks about the Flamenco, the dance. He equates this to the “dance” the greater flamingos do with their feet to stir up the mud in the lake bed to get at the food living in the mud. Now, we did witness this dance. It is interesting, but related to the Flamenco?

The Flamenco dance is part of the culture of the Roma people who migrated to Spain from Rajasthan (northwest India) between the 9th and 14th centuries. Now it is true that the greater flamingo does exist in northwest India near Rajasthan, and it is the greater flamingo that “dances” for its food. So, there is a possibility.  

While driving along the lake bead we also saw the Cape Teal, Egyptian Goose, yellow necks spurfowl, black winged stilt, common snipe, common sandpiper, and yellow fronted canary. There were probably others but those are the ones that were identified and remembered.

Also along the lake bed we saw a number of wildebeest bones and skulls. Apparently the wildebeests cross or attempt to cross the lake during the migration and a number of them, in the hundreds, don’t make it. When they cross the cross in the thousands. It is all part of the circle of left here and amazing too see. As we turned away from the lake we also saw a group of giraffes standing in the shade of a tree. They are beautiful animals.

We drove further east towards the camp where the lake bed had dried out. Here among the bushes we found a pair of lions. Apparently it is mating season for this pair. While we were watching, the male decided it was time to preform his duty and did so. Interestingly the while thing lasted all of about thirty seconds. Then the pair of them were so tired that they lied down and took a nap.

There is no specific breeding season for the African lion. Breeding typically occurs multiple times a year. During the females “receptive period” which lasts three or fours days, lion pairs will mate frequently. Now the interesting point point is that they will do so about fifty times in twenty-four hours. The sad part is that it last all of twenty to thirty seconds each time. They need some training!

We left the lions to do their thing and drive up the embankment to the camp. The camp is nicer than the Tarangire Ndovu Camp by Nasikia. Not complaining about the previous camp, it was very nice, but this camp is nicer. The common area looks nicer, the cabin, while truly as tent cabin is about the same size but the deck over looking the valley is actually screened in.

Our first duty was to unpack and get the cabin organized. Lunch was served about 1. We had a roast chicken, penna pasta with pesto, green beans with beets, tomato and avocado mixed together and a mixed salad. Again this was just a little better than the last camp.

The afternoon heat was taking its toll on us, so we went back to the cabin to rest. I had a cigar on the deck, Mary took and nap and then I joined her. Again, another nice little feature, there was a fan in the cabin which made the whole afternoon just a little better.

Just before 16:30 we got up and went out to the lounge area. Here we were greeted by the staff and offered something to drink. Hansani there and we talked a little bit about this afternoon game drive. Then we got into the Range Rover and took off to see what nature was going to offer us this afternoon.

We made a quick stop near the lions. Apparently they don’t go far during the mating ritual. And, yes they were at it again, for thirty seconds. Enough of that and we took off to see if we could find the cheetah. Hansani knows there is a mother and two cubs near by. After a while we see a couple of more vehicles off in the distance which aren’t moving. Hansani believes this is where the cheetahs are. We take off, across country, not following the established paths towards the other vehicles.

Sure enough, here are the cheetahs. The mother and her two cubs. Her behavior tells Hansani that she is looking for something to feed her cubs. We can’t see anything nearby or far way even using the binoculars. Apparently she can see much better than we do. We sit and watch her and the cubs for a while and then start back to the camp.

Along the way we see a pair of Tawny Eagles. A mature adult and a fairly young one. They are sitting atop and flat top acacia tree with a White-backed Vulture. Beautiful birds. Just below them hanging off the branch is a Buffalo Weaver next which is probably the size to two or three basketballs.

We drive on a bit and come to a large herd of Gazelles, then a groups of zebras and wildebeests. All of them with young ones. There was one wildebeest which had a broken hoof and deformed rear leg. It was very sad to see the poor beast having so much difficulty in walking trying to keep up with the herd. Hansani said that this animals suffering is probably short lived because as soon as cheetah or leopard get wind of the much slower animal they will make a meal of it.

We continued on and saw a paid of DikDik’s on just off the side of the road. On the way we stopped to check in on our love lions. They were at it again, and returned to their napping. After which we returned to the camp and got ready for dinner.

About 19:00 w headed out to the campfire. We sat there with the other couple in camp and enjoyed the fire. Then the served dinner out in the open next to fire. It was very nice. We had a lamb stew, rice, red cabbage, kale with peanut butter, and vegetable mixture. It was all very enjoyable.

Dessert was a cheese cake. They brought out a birthday cake for the gentlemen, and an anniversary cake for the couple. It was his 50th birthday and their 10th anniversary. Then the staff danced around the table singing happy birthday in English and Swahili. It reminded me a lot of Grace’s 16th birthday in Kenya.

Then it was bed time. One of the features of this camp is called sleeping under the stars. The tent can be opened to the sky allowing you to see the stars at night. We were going to do this but the staff was concerned about the possibility of rain. The good part about the rain is it cools everything off. It was getting cool enough to wear a sweater and heavier pants. This will make sleeping much nicer.

When we returned to the cabin we prepared for bed. I was very surprised when I pulled the sheets open to find a dark object in the bed. At first I was concerned but quickly realized it was a hot water bottle to warm the sheets. Again, another level up thing from the prior camp, although it wasn’t necessary before. But a really nice touch.

Buonanotte e ciao, Enrico e Maria.