September 27, 2026

September 27, 2026

Sunday

Sondrio, Sondrio, Italia

GOOD MORNING SONDRIO! It is Sunday morning. Nearly everything in Sondrio is closed; well, that is true for most of Italy. After a shower and shave, it was off to Pasticceria Gelateria La Milanese just across Piazza Giuseppe Garbadli from the hotel for a cappuccino and brioche. Returning a little after it had gone 08:00 to wake up the Queen.

We went down for breakfast about 08:45. We were first joined by Gloria, then by Luisa and the birthday girl. For some strange reason, their parents sat on the other side of the breakfasts room. Strange? After breakfast we retreated back to our room.

Serra texted she needed masking tape to hang party decorations. Someone in Sondrio probably sells some type of painter’s tape or masking tape, but on a Sunday morning? Maybe the little tobacco shop on the corner near La Milanese? They didn’t have any tape that could be found.

The next logical choice would be Iperal, the large supermarket, near the train station. It was a short walk to the market. Passed a couple small alimentari but a quick look did produce anything. The Iperal in Sondrio is as large as most Safeways in the US. Not as big as a Kmart or Target, and focusing more on food than hardware. They had some electrical tape and some type of bandage that would stick but could be removed without damaging the walls.

Just after it had gone 12:00 we attempted to get a Taxi to Trippi, the restaurant they the party was, but we were told it would be twenty to thirty minutes before they could take us. Fortunately, Pietro had to return to the hotel to get something they left behind, so we could give us a ride to the restaurant.

There were twenty plus people at Amadea’s 2nd birthday party. The restaurant was closed but Serra and Pietro had rented it out for the party. We had a lovely table on the veranda at the drivers the restaurant. It was a beautiful clear sunny and warm day. Perfect for the party.

It started with multiple antipasti. After the eight different antipasti, the main courses were a risotto with stinging nettles and lemon, and a locally raised chicken breast. The photos say more than can be said in words. A painting is worth 1,000 words.

This was the first dish - Pollo Freddo con Giardiniera (cold shredded chicken and pickled vegetables). It is a  traditional Valtellina-style dish.

Bresaola della Valtellina PGI is a traditional Italian cured meat made from salted, spiced and cured beef. Produced exclusively in the Province of Sondrio. I can also be made with horse meat which personnal has a much sweeter taste than beef. This was beef.

Carpaccio die Salmerino con Funghi Porcinni is a classic Valtellinese dish combining alpine char—known locally as Salmerino Alpino—and fresh woodland mushrooms.

An open-faced toast featuring a thick click of rustic country bread, a ground meat, in this case probably pork with carrots, garlic and a splash of a good local Valtellinese red wine. First the bread then cavolo nero, black Tuscan kale.

Polpette – the standard Italian meatballs served with yogurt, chopped dill, lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper.

Pizzoccheri – probably the most famous Valtellinese dish, made with buckwheat pasta in the form of thick noodles, potatoes, cabbage and the local Casera cheese.

Taròz – a traditional Valtellinese dish made with mashed potatoes, some time smashed beans, green beans and Casera cheese. Great for using legitimate mashed potatoes.

Risotto con le ortiche o suseí – again a traditional Valtellinese dish, normally served in the spring, featuring fresh stinging nettle, fresh local butter and a bright touch of lemon.

 Chicken breast, baked potato and a finely shredded bed of bitter chicory dressed with oil and vinegar.

Waiting ever of particently to blow out the candle.

The before picture.

A sort-of in the middle picture.

After lunch Simon and his wife drove us to a spot near the church. We had them let us out there rather than try to maneuver thought the one-way streets in Sondrio. It is a short walk to the hotel, maybe 500 meters.

It was 17:00, we were too tried to do much more. We went down to Café Felix and sat in one of the salons in the back, Sala Cavalieri, and played cards and drank tea. We only played on hand before returning to our room. Luisa came down to be with nonna; meaning she wanted to watch cartoons on Nonna’s iPad. A little before 20:00 Serra, Maria and Gloria cane down to take Luisa and Amadea for a walk before putting them to bed. Luisa was unhappy but left with them.

Harry V called. We discussed their plans to come to Europe in the winter. We pushed the idea of visiting the Valtellina while they are in the vicinity. They are going to Prague, Milan, Venice, and Roma.

We got ourselves ready for bed. Packed things up for tomorrow’s departure. We are going to breakfast and then to see the construction on Serra and Pietro’s home in Castione just to the west of Sondrio. After that the plan is for them to drop us off at the train station for our 10:40 train to Milan.          

Buonanotte & Ciao

Enrico and Maria