Goa, Goa, India
This morning, we are visiting Goa. That should not be confused with the State of Goa, although the city of Goa is in the state of Goa. Goa, the state in India, is one of India’s smallest states. The state consists of a mainland section and an offshore island. It is located about 250 miles south of Mumbai, where we will be tomorrow. It is bounded by the states of Maharashtra on the north and Karnataka on the east and south and by the Arabian Sea on the west. Formerly part of the Portuguese colonial empire, it became a part of India in 1962 and attained statehood in 1987. Area 1,429 square miles (3,702 square km). Pop. (2023) 15.7 lakh. For most of us that would be 1,570,000.
They have different words or ways of saying 1,000’s and 1,000,000’s. Lakh is used on the signs around town to show 1,000’s of things. Crores is used for millions. It is confusing to us, but they have been using it throughout India for a long time, so it works for them. We had to ask about it because we saw it on a billboard as we were riding though Goa, the city.
The excursion today is knows as a taste of Goa. We will be examining the city of Goa not so much the state of Goa. The only thing we know about Goa comes from the 1980 World War II movie The Sea Wolves, starring Gregory Peck, Roger Moore and David Niven. It is the true story of Operation Creek, a covert mission in which the Calcutta Light Horse, part of the cavalry reserve in the British Indian Army, successfully sank a German merchant ship in Mormugão Harbor in then neutral Portugal's territory of Goa, India on 9 March 1943.
We don’t want to give too much away. You should watch the movie. Of course, it had nothing to do with today’s excursion, but it is an interesting and fun movie. Today the first stop is what are called the Archaeological Monuments in Old Goa.
This is area contains most of the important Christian religious buildings in Goa. Here we found the Se’ Cathedral and the Basilica of Bom Jesus both from the 17th century. The Basilica of Bom Jesus is dedicated to St. Francis Xavier. The Basilica was started in the late 16th century and finished in the early 17th century. It has a quite imposing façade of black granite. It sits is a large park like setting across the street from Se’ Cathedral. The church is called 'Bom Jesus' meaning 'good Jesus' or 'infant Jesus'. This church is the first Minor Basilica in India and is regarded as one of the best examples of baroque architecture.There are paintings of events from the life of St. Francis Xavier. It enshrines the sacred remains of Goa's patron saint Francis Xavier, who died on a sea voyage to China in 1552. Legend says that when the body of Xavier was transferred to Goa the following year, the body was found as fresh as the day it was buried. The embalmed body of the saint lies in an airtight glass coffin which is placed in a silver casket. It is believed that the saint has miraculous powers of healing. Once every 10 years, the body is allowed to be viewed by the people who visit this holy place. The last time it was in 2014 and the next would be this year. The House of the Jesuits is next door to the basilica and is the place where the Jesuit missions to the east began.
We take our life into our hands and walk across the street to the Se’ Cathedral. This place is part of UNESCO World Heritage Site (Churches & Convents of Goa). The Se Cathedral is dedicated to St. Catherine. It is also known to be the oldest and the most celebrated religious buildings in Goa and has the prestige of being the seat of Archdiocese of Goa. According to history, Alfonso Albuquerque in 1510 defeated the Muslim army on the feast day of St. Catherine of Alexandria and took possession of Goa.
The construction of the Se’ Cathedral began prior to the Basilica and was finished several decades afterwards. In all it took 80 years to complete this cathedral. It is built in the Portuguese-Gothic style. The exterior of the church is Tuscan while the interior is Corinthian. The church is 250 ft in length and 181 ft in breath and 115 ft in height. The main attractions of the Cathedral are the 15 altars, which are dedicated to Our Lady of Three Needs, Our Lady of Anguish or Our Lady of Hope. The grand alter is highly ornate and is dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria. It has the carvings depicting the major events of the life of St. Catherine.
Close to the main altar is placed the throne of Archbishop of Goa. On the right in the order of placing are the Chapels of St. Anthony, St. Bernard, the Miraculous Cross and The Holy Ghost. It is said that a vision of Christ had emerged on the Miraculous cross in 1919 and that the cross is growing in size. On the left side are the chapels dedicated to Nossa Senhora de Necessidades, St. Sebastian, the Blessed Sacrament and the last to Nossa Senhora de Boa Vida.There is an impressive campanile which contains a bell that is often referred to as the Golden Bell. The bell is known for its melody and rich tone and is the largest bell in Goa and one of the best in the world. No, we didn’t hear it ring. No group of Catholic buildings would be complete without a convent. There is an old adjoining convent that has been turned into an Archeological Museum. Unfortunately, we didn’t;t have time to visit it.
We board back on the to motor coach for the next stop. Time for the enlightening religious contrast. We are on our way to visit the ornate Hindu temple Shantadurga, which is dedicated to the goddess Durga, the protective mother of the universe. In case you are still confused about the Indian gods and goddess’ it seems that the main three discussed before, have many incarnations. So, it is the same god, but in a different form, doing the same types of actions, but is venerated under a different name. This is why there at 3,000+ of them. Again, extremely confusing.
Shri Shantadurga Saunsthan is a private temple complex belonging to the Goud Saraswat Brahman Samaj located 30 km (19 mi) from Panaji at the foothill of Kavalem village in Pina Taluka, Goa, India. Now, Shrimad Swamiji of Shri Kavale Math is spiritual head Of Shree Shantadurga Saunsthan, Kavale (Shrimat Shivananda Saraswati Swami Gauḍapādāchārya of Shri Kavale Math is spiritual chief Of Shree Shantadurga Saunsthan).
Shree Shantadurga is the Kuldevi (family deity) of many Goud Saraswat Brahman (Saraswat KuldevDevasthan). On 4 December 2016, (Margashirsh Shuddh Panchmi). Shree Shantadurga Devasthan, Kavale has completed its 450th year of existence.
If you aren’t totally confused yet, you are a much better person than we are. We are back on the motor coach and resuming our excursion when we pass another temple. Which the guide takes the time to explain about. The temple complex is on the slope of the foothills of a mountain chain, surrounded by lush vegetation. There is a main temple and three smaller temples of other deities which have been built on three sides of the temple. The temple consists of a collection of pyramidal roofs with a dome. The pillars and floors are made of Kashmir stone. The temple has a huge tank, a Deep Jyoti Stamph and agrashalas (guest houses). The temple has recently banned entry of foreigners, into the temple citing objectionable dressing and conduct as the reason. So, this is just a drive by.
Now we are off to Ponda to visit a spice farm and have lunch. The motor coach pulls us to a place with a sign that says Nandanvan Goa. Nandanvan Goa is a 400-acre adventure park. They are touting kayaking, rafting, paragliding, rappelling, campfires, flying fox adventures, ATV rides oh, and yes, a spice plantation. The advertisement says all of this takes place in the peaceful surroundings of Khandepar Codar Ponda.
The guide leads us into a large open-air room with tables and benches. Obviously, this is where lunch will taker place. Probably five or six motor coaches join us. We have barely sat down when our group is called to walk through the spice plantation. Admittedly this is interesting. Seeing spices like vanilla, cumin, the pineapple (this is different than those commercially grown and sold in the US, pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, lemon grass, cloves, coriander, and several others is interesting. We see them using a traditional still to make a liquor from a combination of the spices. No tastes :>(.
Back in the large open air seating area they have set up a buffet of various dishes. There is one everyone is saying is very spicy. :>)). At the buffet the plates are filled with rice, chicken, naan, a vegetable curry, and some of the “spicy pickled vegetables”. Maria is saying her mouth is on fire! This is going to be good! Not being fully adventurous I put a little in the vegetable curry and then take a bit. What spice? I put a little on a piece of naan. Better. Then just some on my fork. Yes! That is spicy!
I throughly enjoy the rest of meal. People are actually watching me eat in amazement. They can’t believe I can get the stuff straight. They bring a bowl with lemons and peppers. I eat one of the peppers. People are amazed. Even the staff can’t believe I ate a pepper without anything else. I am in spice heaven.
I am sorry we can’t buy a whole lot of spices and taken the home. Home? Where is that? Oh, that is right we don’t have one any more. So, maybe that is a good thing. We did snag an eight-page handout about the spices. No recipes for food, just medicinal recipes. Interesting.
We are headed back to the motor coach and the Mariner. By the time we are back, it is time for a nap. The heat and the humidity do both of us in. It has been an interesting day. Unfortunately unable to get The Sea Wolves to download. The internet is really bad here in India. It has been suggested that the family that controls all of the internet in india is blocking the ship internet in the hopes we will get frustrated and purchase an Indian SIM card from them. Fat chance!
Buonanotte & Ciao, Enrico & Maria
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