February 27, 2026

Friday

Torino, Italia

We did nothing this morning. Laundry was all done, packing in preparation for leaving on Monday done as much as it could be, so we’ll just chilled in the apartment until 11. Then it was time to go and get something for lunch. Mary wanted to stop at Calzedonia and Legami (a place similar to Flying Tiger). We went online and checked out places for lunch in the vicinity of those two stores.

Turns out that Calzedonia and Legami are both on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. In fact, they are across the street from one another. Mary increased the difficulty of asking for a restaurant that served pasta. Ok, yes, it is Italy, it shouldn’t be that hard, but it is. Finding a place which is too touristy, where a simple pasta dish can be found, it more difficult than you would think. Pizza is easy, pasta a little more difficult.

We did find a place called Melomangio on via Porta Palatina just off of Via Giuseppe Garibaldi that looked like it would meet the requirement. It opens at 12:30. So we headed southeast down the Via Po to Piazza Castello. Crossed the piazza and walked down Via G. Garibaldi.

First, we went into Legami, where Mary bought some things for the girls. Then we crossed the street and Mary went on her shopping spree in Calzedonia. Afterwards, we stopped at Melomangio for lunch. Now, at first it seemed touristy. It is on Via Porta Palatina, with many tourists heading to the Porta Palatina or the baroque chapel at the Duomo which houses the Sindone (Shroud) of Torino. The menu was in Italian, French, English and German, usually another bad sign.

There were several people eating at tables outside. We decided to stop but given the cold outside we asked for a table inside. We got an interior table, sat down and looked through the menu. The menu had Pasta alla Carbonara. This is not a traditional Italian pasta dish. It is said to have been “invented” during World War II to use ingredients available at the time, namely powdered eggs and bacon (in truth it was probably SPAM and not bacon) brought by the US servicemen. Pasta and cheese were available. So the four ingredients got mixed together.

The Pasta alla Carbonara was actually very good, or I was very hungry. Mary chose the cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) pasta. This great dish was introduced to me and eventually to Mary, in Siena. In Siena it is made with pici pasta. The use of pici pasta is important was it changes the taste of the dish. Pici is a thick, usually hand-rolled pasta – think of fat spaghetti. It Originated in in the province of Siena. The dough is usually made only from flour and water – no egg in the mix.

Preparation of proper pici con circo e pepe requires it to be served at the table where the hot pasta is mixed with the Pecorino Romano cheese in a hollowed-our cheese wheel. This particular technique, using the heat of the pasta to melt the fresh shavings of the cheese wheel, helps ensure a luscious, non-clumpy consistency and ulta creamy sauce. Yes, it is considered a “gimmick” by some, but this is how it is served in many of the small non-touristy, place we have been to in Siena. Today, this is how it was served. And, they used pici pasta rather than spaghetti or some other non-traditional pasta. And, it was good.

We shared caraffa (1/2 liter) of the house red wine and a bottle of water. After finishing the meal I asked for an insalata mista. A simple green salad. It is Torino so they added tuna. I specifically said no tuna. I told them I was allergic to tuna. They took it back and left the tuna out. It still has olives, mozzarella cheese, and tomatoes. I was only able to eat about half of it.

Now you know it isn’t a tourist place when – 1) the coperto (cover charge) is only €1. Most places, even non-touristy ones are between €2 and €3. Anything over €3 and you are either at a really high end very fancy place, or you are a tourist. 2) the entire bill is less than €25 per person. Here the cover was low and the bill was €40.50 for the two of us. That, and the food and service were great.

After lunch we walked back to Piazza Castello where Mary wanted to stop a new chocolate store. Here is managed to completely fill the remaining area in our shopping bag. Ok, I bought one thing for Grace – a package with chocolate cups and a bottle of grappa. Her birthday is in three weeks.

We walked back to the apartment. Took a nap. At 18:30 we joined Pietro, Serra and the girls for aperitivo at Signorvino in Piazza Vittorio Venuta. Pietro was in charge of ordering, and he ordered a whole lot of food. All the normal salami and cheese for sure. But he also ordered grilled artichokes. They were to die for. This was our dinner.

After dinner we headed back to the apartment. We played cards and called it a night.

Buonanotte e Ciao,

Enrico e Maria