September 30, 2026

September 30, 2026

Wednesday

Torino, Piemonte, Italia

Although yesterday was a travel day, we almost made it to 10,000 steps, just about 200 short. We would have made it if we had walked back to the hotel from Serra’s, but the heavy suitcases made that impossible. Yes, the 10,000-step target is not based on clinical research. It is all a catcher marketing slogan from a Japanese company in 1965 when they introduced the Manpo-kei pedometer in 1965. Manpo-kei translates to "10,000-steps meter." Recent scientific studies show that there are significant health benefits—such as a lower risk of early death and heart disease— which start to maximize around 7,000 steps per day. There are extra benefits beyond 7,000 steps. These often plateau past 8,000 to 10,000 steps, though higher counts still support extra goals like weight management and metabolic conditioning. But for us it is just a target to work towards.

I was down at breakfast ay 07:00 with the suitcase full of dirty laundry. The breakfast layout isn’t bad. However, the only have a machine to make cappuccino, and that machine does a lousy job of it. I finished breakfast just about 07:30 and headed to the laundromat. The laundromat I usually use is just about 1.1 miles from the hotel.

My timing for arrival at the laundromat was nearly perfect. However, it turned out it was perfect because they opened the laundromat at 07:50 just as I arrived. By 08:00 the laundry was in the washers, and I was sitting doing my Italian lessons. By 09:30 I was on my way back to the hotel, arriving there just after it had gone 10:00.

This is the Palatine Gate. It is a Roman Age city game which provided access through the city walls of Julia Augusta Taurinorun from the North side.  The gate represents the primary archaeological evidence of the city’s Roman Phase. It is also one of the world’s best-preserved 1st-century Roman gateways. You walk through this gate to get to the laundromat.

We stayed in the room working on getting our tickets to Malpensa on Sunday afternoon and planning our day. Oh, last night there was some discussion of Christmas, finally. So apparently, we are looking at the Dolomites or the Canary Islands. The Dolomites are cold, but we are told it is a really nice resort. According to the internet the temperatures typically ranging from a daytime high of -1°C (30°F) to nighttime lows of -10°C to -14°C (14°F to 6°F).

We stopped on La Palma on our anniversary (May 17) 2024 while on the world cruise. It was May and not December. We don’t know exactly which of the Canary Islands we may be going to but Las Palmas de Gran Canaria in December features mild, spring-like weather with daytime highs averaging around 21°C to 22°C (70°F to 72°F) and cooler evenings dropping to 15°C to 17°C (58°F to 62°F). The most important advantage of La Palma is we might get to visit Puros Artesanos Julio S.L., a maker of fine hand rolled cigars. We managed to convince Regent to put together a tour of their facility and store while we were on the world cruise. By “we” I mean the other cigar smokers on the cruise.

Just after it had gone 11:00 we left the hotel and walked the couple blocks to Piazza della Repubblica. Piazza della Repubblica is the largest square in Torino covering 51,300 m² or 552,200 ft². It is one of the largest piazzas in Italy and hosts the largest open-air market on a daily basis. La Piazza della Repubblica is the focal point of the Porta Palazzo section of the Aurora district of Torino. Here the scent of fresh fruit, vegetables along with their vibrant colors is mixed with foreign voices mingling various Italian dialects. In this market Europe, Africa and Asia live, meet and clash in a sea wonderful energy.  

There are two large and imposing buildings in the piazza. The oldest is L'antica tettoia dell'orologio (technically the old clock canopy). It was built in 1916 and called the "Pavilion IV." This building is a classic example of the metal structures of that era. Following renovations between 1995 and 1998, it was given its current name. It stands as the quintessential symbol of the grand market and is located in the northeastern section, which is dedicated exclusively to the sale of meat and cheese products distributed across 88 numbered stalls.

Located on the northwest quadrant of the palazzo is the Mercado. This building was constructed between 1998 and 2005. It was built on the site of the pre-existing “Clothing Market” which dated back to 1963. The current structure, with its strong contemporary character, is completely out of character with the Piazza della Repubblica. It consists of glass and burnished metal and looks throughly modern. It has also been an economic flop. The ground floor is a large food court. The 1st floor is supposed to be a clothing mart made up of various stores. We have visited here several times and no more than a third of spaces on the 1st floor have ever been occupied.

The people who shop in Piazza della Repubblica are the type interested in deals. They are looking for items which are less expensive than you might find in a “normal” retail store. The 1st floor looks and feels like a normal retail mall. Thus, it is avoided on the assumption that it is more expensive. We are working our way through the southeast quadrant of the piazza looking for good lemons from which to make limoncello, while at the same time working our way to the Mercado food court for lunch.

Almost every stall has lemons. They seem to be running about €1 to €1.5 per kilogram (about $0.55 to $0.81 per pound). We probably looked at 10 or 12 stalls before stumbling on one with really good looking lemons. We asked the vendor for 12. The total weight was just over one kilogram. It cost us all of €2.

After buying our lemons we headed towards the far quadrant to the Mercado. It is still a little bit before noon, so most of the stalls aren’t even open yet. We did find one vendor handing out samples of steak. It was very good, so we decided to have a nice bistecca alla Fiorentina. We got one for the two of us. It was just about a kilogram and a half (about three pounds, including the bone). They cooked it up medium-rare and served it with roasted potatoes.

We ate almost all of it. Note the bone was probably half to three-quarters of kilogram. It was incredibly expensive at €65 a kilogram (about $30 a pound). However, it was extremely good and of excellent quality. We even got a small box to take some to Pietro for his dinner.

After lunch we got on the streetcar (No. 16) at Porta Palazzo East (Fermata 201) and rode it to Fermata 607 (Via Mazzini). Ok, how did we know to do this? We use Rome2Rio. Put in the starting point and the ending point and it will tell you the options for getting there. The tram number, the stop numbers and names, and the number of stops between getting on and getting off. Makes thing very easy.

So why are we headed to Via Mazzini in the first place. Well, we are looking for 100 proof, 50% by volume alcohol to we can make limoncello. Mary had found a liquor store online that supposedly had 100 proof vodka – Torino Wine and Spirits. It was just two blocks up Via Mazzini from the tram stop at the corner of Via Mazzini and Via Fratelli Calandra.

The man in the store understood what we wanted and what we wanted it for. Unfortunately, he didn’t have any in stock. He had a number of different vodkas but there were a couple empty spaces on the shelf. So maybe he had some in the past. He suggested we try one of the larger supermercati. Borello next to Serra’s come to mind immediately, We didn’t recall seeing any hard liquor there on our previous visits but then we weren’t looking for any. We have seen wine, however.

It is basically a straight, or semi straight, line from the liquor store to Borello. Down Via Fratelli Calandra, through Piazza Cavour, jog to the left around Sorgente Pipesca (the church of the Pipesca Spring), a right on Via delle Rosine, crossing Via Po, the street changes names to Via Sant’Ottavio. Past the McDonalds and you are at the elevator to do down to the Borello Supermercati. Keep in mind that the supermarket is in the middle of the University of Torino.

We didn’t find a bottle of 100 proof Vodka, but we did find a 96-proof alcohol which on the label claims to be good for making infusions. Limoncello is the infusion of lemon into alcohol so it should work just fine. We took the lemons and alcohol to Serra’s. We stayed until 18:00 and then we walked back to the hotel.

After we got back to the hotel we headed out to find somewhere to have a light dinner. We walked out of the front door of the hotel and made a sharp right turn on Via Porta Palatina. We had not gotten to far when we came upon HOST – Café Bistrot Torino. We looked at the menu a salami and cheese tagliere. They also had a sign saying they were open. It was prior to 19:00 so finding something open is a feat.

We walked inside and inquired if they were open. Yes, they confirmed they were open. We were offered any seat but chose to sit outside. We ordered a liter of the house red wine, we were informed it was a Barbera. Great. A liter of natural water and the tagliere di salumi e formaggi. Oh wait! The kitchen doesn’t open until 19:00. Ok, that is in like 10 minutes, right? Yes, but you will have to wait for them to open. That is ok with us.

By the time she brought the water, glasses, wine and plates, the ten minutes was up and she went back to the kitchen and got us our tagliere. We sat and people watched for a while. More and more people can and sat down. As it approached 20:00 we got up and went inside and paid.

We walked back to the hotel and went into bar on the ground floor. We asked if we could sit and play cards at one of the tables. He said sure. We each ordered a pot of tea and commenced playing canasta. Mary’s good fortune ruled the evening. Fortunately, it wasn’t a skunk; but it could have happened.

We finished up the game and headed up to our room. We have nearly 16,000 steps today. More than making up the last of steps on the weekend.

Buonanotte e Ciao,

Enrico & Maria