December 7, 2025

Antarctica

Sunday Morning. Slept until 06:30. The last three hours have been difficult to sleep. The sun was up high in the sky and it was very bright in the cabin. It could be just the excitement of the possibility of going ashore this morning. Zodiac Group 4, that is us, are going to start boarding at 08:45. We were supposed to arrive at Mikkelsen Harbor at 06:45, but that has passed and the ship is still moving. However, the sea looks as smooth as a lake.

Mikkelsen Harbour (63°54′S 60°47′W) is a small bay indenting the south side of Trinity Island between Skottsberg Point and Borge Point, in the Palmer Archipelago, Antarctica. We are headed here because this harbor provides excellent anchorage. Mikkelsen Harbour was discovered by the Swedish Antarctic Expedition (SAE) of 1901–1904. The origin of the name comes from Peder Michelsen, a whaling manager who was lost in the whaling grounds in December 1910. The harbor was charted by Captain Hans Borge.

It has nearly gone 07:25 and the doesn’t appear to be moving. In fact, it sounds like that have begun to offload the Zodiacs. An announcement just come over the ship's loudspeaker system telling is that this is fifteen-minute warning for the first disembarkation and exploring the bay.

The daily “news sheet”, Chronicles, says that we will made two stops today. One here in Mikkelsen Harbor and a second one after lunch in Cierva Cove. Cierva Cove (64°9′S 60°53′W) is 6 nautical miles (11 km) southeast of Cape Sterneck in Hughes Bay, just south of Chavdar Peninsula along the west coast of Graham Land, Antarctica. Shown on an Argentine government chart of 1950, it was named by the UK Antarctic Place-Names Committee in 1960 for Juan de la Cierva, the Spanish designer of the autogiro, which was the first successful rotating wing aircraft in 1923.

Just finished up breakfast, ham and cheese omelette for me and yogurt and berries fo Mary. Putting on the fourth layer of clothing. Getting ready to head to the Mudroom. Looking forward to getting a foot on Antarctica!

We did it, we both have all seven continents! We loaded into the Zodiacs and headed to the landing area on the shore of D’Hainaut Island entering though Mikkelsen Harbor. The Zodiac pulled up the rocky shore, and we had a wet landing, meaning there is no dry pier to exit onto.

 A Weddell Seal taking a nap on shore as we exit the Zodiacs.

We marched up to the top of the island before making right hand turn. Then we followed on the bluff above the shore, finally working our way back to the Zodiac. When we exited the Zodiac and took a few steps forward, there was a seal sunning him/herself on the rocky shore. Off in the distance you could see penguins. We hiked over the top of the island and on the way down we saw a small colony of penguins on a rock outcropping. The guide informed us that the penguins have already had an opportunity to lay their eggs. The penguins were lying down and covering the the egg. There was one penquin who stood by watching for any sign of a bird of prey show might show up. These were chinstrap penguins. The smell was foul (pun) but not too bad.

 You have to look closely but there is a colony of penguins on that outcroping.

Yes, that is me standing on Antarctica!

Just before lunch, 11:30, the ship will depart for Cierva Cove. Richard & Susan met us that the reception desk. Richard had some problem getting the internet to work. As soon as they were done, we headed to The Restaurant. The Grill theme for the meal was Oriental. We thought it would be ok to skip that.

Lunch was good. The three of them had conchiglie ai quattro formaggi. Richard and I had the shrimp cocktail. No, not jumbo prawns, but those little, tiny things. Susan and Mary had baby leaf and orange slices salads. My main course was a tender pounded beef paillard. Mary, Susan and Richard also had the leek and potato soup. It is piece of flank steak rolled up with onions and mushrooms inside. They were all good.

After lunch we went back to our cabin and took a nap. We have another expedition beginning at 16:00. This time we are going to see snow, seals and penguins. It is fun riding out in the Zodaic. Of course, the most exciting thing for me was getting my seventh continent under my belt.

We got up just about 15:00 to the announcements from the expedition staff that group 5 was being called to the Mudroom. The second round of expeditions was beginning. It takes a while to put on not one but two layers of thermal underwear.

The first layer is light weight silk. Then the medium layer. Lastly the water-resistant layer. Over that you have a long sleeve rubberized layer. This is followed by pants, which are covered with waterproof plastic pants. Then comes the expedition jacket. Then comes the expedition life jacket. Now you move down to the Mudroom where you put on your boots, gloves and glove liners, your thermal hat, your beanie, and lastly your dark goggles. You are now ready to walk down to the RIB and get in a go for a ride. Movement is somewhat difficult with all this gear on, but you aren’t cold.

 Susan, Richard, Mary and I. Yes they are riding around the Antarctic Ocean drinking champagne. Mary’s type of tour!

That is an iceberg. They can be the size of a basketball or as large as the colosseum in Roma. This one is big and has an ice bridge. It is very unusual to see one of these ice bridges because they tend to collapse shortly after being made, or so says our guide.

A better shot of the penguins.

We cruised around the cove. Driving the RIB through or around the ice flows. We managed to see three different types of penguins; Chinstrap, Gentoo and Adélie. The guide said we were very fortunate to see all three, and especially the Gentoo penguin as it is rarely seen. Riding on the rib through the ice is an experience. It is simply beautiful.

We got back to the ship with just enough time to change and made our dinner reservation. We ate at the Il Terrazzino again tonight. Dinner was excellent and the sommelier pick out a prefect matching bottle of wine.

After dinner, Richard, Susan and Mary went to the observation deck for a drink. I simply headed to be. Even with a nap today I seem worn out.

Buonanotte e ciao,

Enrico e Maria