February 6, 2026

Sondrio > Bologna, Italia

Travel day. It rained and snowed last night, but this morning is just overcast thankfully. A quick breakfast in the hotel, took some fruit and a muffin up to Mary. We organized things for ride to Bologna. This is a two-train trip with a change of trains in Milano.

The first train is Sondrio to Milano Centrale. We have done this trip a hundred times, probably not really but probably fifty times. A sufficient number of times to know that 07:40 and 08:00 trains, and maybe even that 08:40 are filled with high school students going from Tirano and Sondrio to Morbegno for school. There are also some people who work in Milano on the first two trains. Therefore those trains are very crowded and it is sometimes difficult to find a seat.

Checkout at the hotel is 11:00. We can’t check-in to the hotel until 15:00. So, it makes sense to work around these specific times. There is a 10:40 train from Sondrio that gets to Milano at 12:40, assuming it is on time. There is a Freccirarossa from Milano Centrale to Bologna at 13:35 that gets into Bologna at 14:42. The time between 12:40 and 13:35 gives us sufficient time to pick up a sandwich for lunch before heading to Bologna. That is the plan and we worked the plan.

The first train was only a few minutes late. We still had time to pick up a sandwich. However, they have closed one of the places to pickup a sandwich which is near the platforms. The two remaining places were crowded as a result. So, we went into Relax, kind-of-like a Hudsons, and picked some premade sandwiches and drinks. We decided to eat on the train. We boarded the train about 13:30, stowed the luggage on the rack, and took our seats. Two window seats facing each other on the side of the car which only had two seats.

A few minutes later we were on our way to Bologna. We ate our lunch and relaxed. We had about an hour until Bologna. The train was a few minutes late, but on Italian time, on time. We walked out of the station; however, we chose the wrong exit and had to walk a block to get to the taxi stand. The taxi stand wasn’t particularly busy fortunately, and we were able to get a taxi quickly. We were off to the hotel.

The Grand Hotel Majestic Gia Baglioni it situated on a principal street which terminates at the Piazza Maggiore. It begins not far from the Bologna’s central strain station. It is an easy walk, however it is all on a slight uphill angle from the Piazza XX Settembre and the Porta Galliera. Via dell’indipendenza has a number of shops and hotels, and for the most part is covered by porticoes. Even if it is raining you won’t get wet.

Now, unfortunately, the street itself is closed because they are adding a tram line which will run up the street. They will probably, or eventually, close the street to all traffic except the tram and taxis. The hotel itself is fairly close to Piazza Maggiore and this the center of old Bologna. Great location from which to explore Bologna.

We check-in to the hotel and go up to our room and get settled. We are meeting V, Ali and Grace for dinner. Dustin, V’s friend from Kansas City, had given V some restaurant recommendations. Unfortunately, V misspelled the name of one of the choices. Not a difficult mistake. The name of the restaurant on the text was Il Posto. It was closest to the hotel so a reservation for dinner was made at that one. The unfortunate part is the name of Dustin’s recommendation was Posta, not Posto. We would later find out that Posto is a seafood restaurant – which wouldn’t be a choice for me.

While Mary was resting, I went out for a walk to see if I could find some of our old haunts. In particular, I was looking for a restaurant off a little alley in a secluded courtyard. Apparently I can still remember things and without any trouble what so ever, I found Corte de Galluzzi. There are two restaurants in this small off the main path courtyard. La Corte Galluzzi and Trattoria da Me Nella Torre. We have eaten at La Corte Galluzzi on a prior trip and loved it.

Once the mistaken identity of Dustin’s choice was made it was too late to make a reservation at the correct one. When it was time for dinner I walked the group from the hotel to Corte de Galluzzi. We entered the Corte de Galluzzi from Piazza Galvani through the archway, Via d’Azeglio behind the Basilica di San Petronio, that connects the two. The first documented use of the name Galluzzi is from 1288.

The courtyard is a good example of how the noble Bolognese lived in the Middle Ages. The structure follows the “anormale pattern of the time. An internal courtyard overlooked by various key buildings: the tower (sometimes more than one), the residences, and a family church or oratory. The structure of the church of Santa Maria Rotonda de' Galluzzi has been preserved here, although it has been converted into a shop overlooking Via d'Azeglio. The tower is not as tall as it once was, but now houses the Trattoria de Me Nella Torrre. On the ground level is Corte de Galluzzi.

After looking at the menus, it was thought that Trattoria de Me Nella Torre would be the best choice. However, it is Friday night and when V went to check it was completely booked. So, we got to go to Corte de Galluzzi for dinner. Dinner took several hours. There were a couple bottles of wine, and lots of very good food.

Antipasti:

Tagliere  Di Salumi E Formaggi Del Territorio: Mortadella "palmieri", salame felino, prosciutto di parma 30 mesi, pancetta arrotolata, coppa di parma, squacquerone, parmigiano reggiano 24 mesi dop, caciotta bolognese dei colli, pesto modenese.

Carciofi Ripieni Alla Bolognese: Carcioti con pane raffermo, pecorino, parmigiano, prezzemolo, mortadella e aglio (stuffed artichokes bolognese style filled with stale bread, pecorino cheese, parmigiano reggiano, parsley, mortadella and garlic).

Baccalà Montebianco Di Pellegrino Artusi Ricetta N°118: "Montebianco" salt cod based on pellegrino artusi's recipe no. 118. Fish for Ali.

Lingua Di Vitella Di Latte In Salsa Piccante Ricetta Di Pellegrino Artusi N°361: Milk-fed veal tongue in spicy sauce inspired by pellegrino artusi's recipe no. 361.

Cestino Di Crescentine Bolognesi: Traditional emilian fried bread.

Oh that is just the antipasti. Dinner –

Ali ordered the Gagliatelle All'uovo Al Ragù Bolognese: Egg tagliatelle with bolognese ragout. I ordered the Zuppa Imperiale/Sopa Imperièl: Servita in doppio brodo di cappone e cubi di parmigiano reggiano dop (a traditional soup from bologna: tiny baked semolina and egg cubes, served in rich double capon broth with parmigiano reggiano pdo). Often shown on menu as Tortellini in Brodo.

Honestly, I have run out of memory as to what else was ordered and or eaten, but it doesn’t matter it was all very good. I will blame it on the wine, which I enjoyed perhaps a little more than was necessary.

After dinner we walked back to the hotel and called it a night. Grace has a 05:06 train for Malpensa. The front desk said getting a taxi so early in the morning is hit or miss. While it is downhill and only about 2 kilometers at 04:00 it probably isn’t the best time to be out walking. It probably isn’t the best time for an 18-year-old woman to be alone in the train station either, so I’ll go with Grace in the morning. Hey, I would probably be awake anyway.

However, such an early rise makes going to bed all that more imperative.

Buonanotte e ciao,

Enrico e Maria